Even if it was larger, a pipe with water running through it (as with a trickle drain) could support diameter-narrowing growth (i.e. If the emergency drain were undersized, then it could not handle the rate and the tank could possibly overflow (depending upon how the sump chambers were designed). You see, with the primary drain of the Herbie being in full siphon, if it were blocked, the water level would rise and the emergency drain (which is typically, at best, the same size) would be swamped and go into full siphon. One advantage of the Herbie is that it's quieter than the Durso/Stockman configuration.īeanAnimal (that's Be An Animal for those that don't know the history), a frequent technical contributor to the Reef Central Community built his overflow design on the shoulders of the Herbie, adding yet another level of redundancy (protection) from drain blockage. For tanks that only had two holes drilled in their overflow compartment, this meant that the return line had to either come over the top or through additional holes drilled in the back of the tank. To compensate for that, a second pipe was added to serve as a tricke drain and emergency drain. However, by doing so, there was no extra capacity to deal with water backing up as there was in the Durso design. It was, as I recall, one of the first configurations that exploited the quiet operation of a drain in full-siphon as the centerpiece in the design. Later, the Herbie overflow configuration came on the scene. Unfortunately, this can lead to that toilet-flushing sound if it becomes a periodic thing. One of the cool things about the Durso and Stockman designs was that, if the water backed up (but the pipe was not clogged), it covered the vent and the pipe went into full siphon to increase water flow and self-correct from the rising water situation. Especially if they're not vented properly, they can make a periodic flushing noise as the water alternates between full siphon and refilling the area behind the overflow. There's often the sound of water arriving in the sump that needs to be dealt with (I've found that bubble diffusers and filter socks can help cut that down). When tuned, both can be fairly quiet with just the sound of a little air going into the vent. The Durso (and later the Stockman) standpipes were sort of first-generation devices that were quieter than an open standpipe. Is this set up quiet?Īll I did was a few image searches on topics that I had some idea of the keywords on, and found enough to get you started. (Igonore the roller filter or whatever that is at item C.) This diagram was found on wetwebmedia's freshwater refugium faq, but the configuration is fairly standard. This graphic, found on the web, shows the basic idea. This describes a fairly simple and standard way of plumbing these lines with a submersible (in-sump) pump. I like to put valves and unions in at strategic places so that I can remove / repair / replace the return pump when needed. The drains can be plumbed together, but I prefer to keep them separate (to mitigate the risk of a common line clogging). As long as the check valve is working, this will prevent water being siphoned from the locline returns back down to the sump when the main pump is off. (But, if you do, it may not see much use.) Some aquarists will put a check valve on the common line going from the T to the pump. In some cases, the aquarist will put a valve on each line. See this image for an example that uses a commercially available Durso-type standpipe:īeneath the tank, the two return lines are up-sized to 1" and will typically go to a T and then onto the return pump. This is where your return line (terminating in locline) enters the main body of the tank. Often times, you'll see a hole or a notch in the near the weir. The 3/4 inch lines are used as twin returns. You can get by the flow limitation through the weir by cutting out alternate teeth in the weir - or all of them and going with a slot-weir.įellterrier: The traditional way to plumb that tank is with two Durso or Stockman standpipes - one in each oveflow - typically on the 1" line. This guy at Utah Reefs had an idea that used both ends as siphons and emergency overflows. Definitely a compromised design - but maybe not to much so. You'd need to make sure that you had good surface agitation to make sure any organics wouldn't pool to one side. You'd still get about 8-10linear inches of surface skimming from the weir (admittedly, not much), but all to one end of the tank. That configuration is what I was thinking about in terms of usage. but surface skimming really isn't efficient with the stock small toothed weirs. With dual boxes it isn't consistent and becomes troublesome to fine tune although if one were to try I'd do the emergency and return in one and the full and partial siphons in the other.
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